In early March, I finally made it to Sicily. I wasn’t disappointed. It’s a magical island, the largest in the Med, fascinating in its traces of Moorish, Norman and Piedmontese domination down the centuries. And it has magnetic attractions all its own: dramatic mountains, deep blue seascapes, historic Baroque cities, fabulous fish markets and spectacular food, especially the sauced fish pastas and the desserts. There are vineyards everywhere, of course, the grapes on the plains ripening too quickly under a fierce summer sun. So it’s not surprising that the best Sicilian wines come from cooler vineyards at higher altitudes.